The markets — Palermo
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The markets

The beating heart of Palermo, from dawn

In Palermo you understand everything from the markets. They are open-air theatres where the city has shouted, laughed and cooked for a thousand years. You walk in at dawn and come out with your hands greasy from fried food and your eyes full of colour.

Ballarò, the oldest — Palermo

Ballarò, the oldest

Palermo's largest and oldest market smells of Arab spices and ripe fruit. The vendors' cries — the abbanniate — are a kind of music. Go early: at eight in the morning the light cuts across the stalls and the fish has just arrived.

Fish, freshly caught — Palermo

Fish, freshly caught

Stalls piled with the day's catch — sardines, red prawns, octopus and sea urchins: at the Vucciria and the Capo the sea reaches the stalls from dawn. It is the truest spectacle in Palermo.

Vucciria and Capo — Palermo

Vucciria and Capo

By day the Vucciria is a market; by night it becomes the city's liveliest square, between little tables and wine. The Capo, in the shade of its awnings, feels like a souk: narrow, exotic, real.

The local's tip

What to try: arancina, pane e panelle, sfincione and — for the more curious — pane ca' meusa. You eat standing, for a few euros, surrounded by people. It is the most authentic Palermo there is.

The markets are 10-15 minutes on foot from the house.

Street food and markets in Palermo: where to go

Palermo's markets — Ballarò, Vucciria and Capo — are the best way to discover Sicilian street food: arancina, pane e panelle, sfincione and pane ca' meusa. Staying at Palermo Holiday House, at Via Agrigento 10 near Via Libertà, you reach them on foot in 10-15 minutes. An authentic, free experience, perfect for those looking for what to do and where to eat in the old town of Palermo.

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